(Although L’Artisan Parfumeur built a whole fragrant collection around it…), Caron Secret Oud Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille ‘A sack of potatoes’. Elizabeth Arden Red Door (An idea we’d rather like to see revived...) Iris has long been a symbol of majesty and power, too. (The best oil, though, is said to come from Tunisia, where Jean-Paul Guerlain has his own bitter orange grove…) During the distillation process, a beautifully scented water’s also produced, which makes its way into floral waters and flavourings. Put it with frangipani or vanilla, though, and their mutual sweetness comes out… (If you were to look under a microscope, vanilla essential oil actually contains a little heliotropin in its make-up.) Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio Juicy Couture Juicy Couture And at the same time, a wide range of synthetic sandalwood-like ingredients are now used in place of this at-risk wood, to give that smooth milkiness. Givenchy Ysatis Frederic Malle En Passant Did you know that the apple’s really a member of the rose family…? Marigolds – the name comes from the phrase ‘Mary’s gold’, and refers to the Virgin Mary – are members of the sunflower family, grown throughout the world. Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Camellia So long as the lily flowers you buy are indeed fragrant, they’ll pump their sweetness into the air without fading for a couple of weeks at a time…, Cacharel Anaïs Anaïs Jo Malone London Vetyver Grès Cabotine The raw materials in the balsamic family are sweet and woody. Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps (The seeds, meanwhile, can also be used in pot pourri. Orange blossom honey. Aldehydes may be found in natural materials – rose, citronella, cinnamon bark and orange rind, for instance – but are also a family of synthetic chemicals, formed (here’s the science bit) ‘by the partial oxidation of primary alcohols’. (We do.) There are actually two types, which share the same ‘marigold’ umbrella name: Calendula officinalis, and Tagetes Glandulifera (the French marigold, a.k.a. Andrea Maack Smart Bulgari Pour Femme Wild-harvested supplies are obviously extremely erratic – and many countries have outlawed the trade of ambergris, as part of a more general ban on the exploitation and hunting of sperm whales, so ambergris tends to be created synthetically. Those of a certain age will be most familiar with edelweiss as the name of a song crooned by Christopher Plummer in the movie of The Sound of Music. C9 – nonanal – smells of roses. Not everyone thinks they love the smell of tobacco – but encountering it in a fragrance is way more sensual an experience than walking into a smokey room, or dealing with the post-party ashtray challenge. Lolita Lempicka Coral Flower Unlike the flowers, which add a powdery touch to scents, violet leaf smells very ‘green’ – and works best in watery fragrances and masculine scents, especially in the fougère family. Dior Addict eau de parfum It also cured snakebite, increased fertility – and was a cornerstone of ‘Four Thieves Vinegar’, a blend of herbs alleged to ward off the plague. As well as featuring widely in ‘soliflores’ (so-called ‘single note’ fragrances, which are often actually a lot more complex than that), lily of the valley works its magic in many other fragrances, used to ‘open up’ and freshen the other floral notes in a blend – as a clever writer on the Perfume Shrine blog puts it, ‘much like we allow fresh air to come into contact with a red wine to let it “breathe” and bring out its best’. With these materials perfumers can reinvent naturally occurring smells and create entirely new scents. You’ll find it in a handful of creamy, floral feminine fragrances. It isn’t just the fruit that’s used: apple blossom gives a soft, floral air to fragrances – and lately, there’s been a trend to using something called an ‘apple tree’ note: in fact, a synthetic, ‘fantasy’ ingredient which delivers a fruity-woodiness. Happily for civet cats, most of the civet now used is synthetically recreated, for ethical reasons (the cats are kept in cages and stressed, in order to produce the secretion) – although we have heard that some small perfumers still secretly source the real thing, a practise we absolutely can’t condone. Penhaligon’s Peoneve Originally a native of China, peaches made their way to Europe after Alexander the Great conquered the Persians and brought back a botanical trophy, Prunus persica, then known as the ‘Persian apple’. Or Thymus vulgaris, from the nymphs who played in springs or pools appears part. 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